There's a new movement afoot in the world of urban bike culture. It seems that the hyper-minimalist fixed gear phenomenon is gracefully ceding its position after a 5-year or so run at the top of the "bikes-are-cool" culture charts. The usurper is a young, feisty upstart known as bicycle chic, which treats the bicycle as a fashion accessory (complete with its own meta-accessories) and measures coolness by how little effort the rider appears to put into the act of riding a bike.
Cycle Chic
Like most cycling sub-cultures, bicycle chic reveres Europe and is thrilled to see itself represented in broader popular culture. Unlike most cycling sub-cultures, the participants of bicycle chic do not come across as giant nerd bombs to the non-cycling world.But there are strict rules to follow. Absolutely no cycling-specific clothing. No clipless pedals, toe-clips, or anything else that could be described as "gear." Never ride a bike that appears to be less than 15 years old or cost more than $200. Closed-toed shoes if you must, but only when it's cold (and make sure they match the frame color). Never roll up your pant leg, apply a leg band, or in any way alter your appearance for the sake of practicality on the bike. Helmet? Of course not. Messes the hair.
But hey, I applaud the movement. Anything on two wheels is great with me, and frankly the fixed-gear thing was getting a little rusty (not to mention unsafe, with so many novice riders jumping onto the most difficult kind of bike to ride in a city). When the image-conscious latch on to bikes an attractive element of urbanism, the rest of mainstream America can't be far behind. And there's something admirable about mindfully refusing to acknowledge the minor inconveniences of urban bike riding.
However, the whole thing strikes me as a bit disingenuous. For all the emphasis on effortless slackerdom, it takes a lot of work to make it look that easy. It's really just another form of consumerism wrapped in the cloak of a rebellious sub-culture (ie. skate or goth fashion). And the resentment toward the very idea of riding a bike for fun or sport is disheartening. Why is that an adult athlete who seriously practices a sport (and doesn't get paid millions to do it in front of an audience) is met with sneering and mild contempt from others?
But I don't mean to seem too critical. Any cultural shift that recognizes bicycles as a respectable and dignified piece of the urban landscape is most welcome by me.
Here's a small sampling of some of the good bicycle chic blogs out there:
Copenhagen Cycle Chic
Chic Cyclist
Amsterdamize
Cycling Gentlemen
16 comments:
I'm glad to see this movement getting some coverage, but I think you might be mischaracterizing it a bit by emphasizing the fashion aspect of it. I think the real motivation comes from a conviction to normalize the idea of bicycles as transportation. Rather than make a fashion show out of cycling, with bikes as little more than accessories, the real heart of this movement is making bicycling more accessible and ultimately more democratic. Everyone can participate in "bicycle culture" because anyone can climb on a bike and ride it anytime, no special clothing or equipment required. That the bikes are frequently old or old-fashioned looking is simply due to the comfort of the old-style designs, the product of an era when bicycles were taken more seriously as transportation and made with comfort in mind. And, as a closing thought, I think that novice glitzy-glam cycle chics are just as dangerous as novice fixed-gear hipsters, and I doubt if you'll see any of the cycle chic sites or blogs advocating a lack of safety or education. My two cents, thanks for the opportunity.
The Cycling Gentleman
Zach, I appreciate your post about Cycle Chic, and I like to think I know where you're coming from, but I have to try and correct your point of view on this, because I think your missing a few important points. Allow me.
Copenhagen Cycle Chic's Mikael and Marie coined the term to counter the oppressing and conditioning of the sports cycle industry and the power of the helmet (legislation) zealots + industry, mainly dominant in the US, UK and Australia. They (and I) basically observe something that's been around for decades and created a sphere to show people outside our continent what bicycling CAN be about and that cycling as a means shouldn't be considered ONLY to be 'sporty' or 'hard' or 'tribe-like' or 'political' (Critical Mass is so counter productive, I'll elaborate on that in a post). We don't care what kind of bike you have or what kind of clothes you wear, it doesn't matter. What does matter is that there are a whole lot of people out there (in US/UK/Australia) who don't feel inspired to cycle more, mainly BECAUSE it looks so difficult (sporty, gear), because it SEEMS 'dangerous' (helmets, etc).
"The usurper is a young, feisty upstart known as bicycle chic, which treats the bicycle as a fashion accessory (complete with its own meta-accessories) and measures coolness by how little effort the rider appears to put into the act of riding a bike and looking good while doing it."
It's not an upstart and we don't treat the bicycle as a fashion accessory: bicycling like this has been around for decades in (greatest tradition in northern) Europe, it's not a culture, it's just there. People going about their business, every day, on a bike as a valid part of the transportation mix. It's like that, because during the boom of the automobile in the 60's people demanded more safety for cycling and our countries implemented (traffic calming) policies to make it more accessible and safe, with segregated cycling infrastructure and making public and residential spaces more people-friendly (something you as a urban planning student should be able to appreciate :)).
Sure, the fashion and media industry is hijacking it right now (it's surging so money to be made, and it looks so retro, and I believe retro is now the new disco), even if it's for the wrong reasons (bicycles are eco-friendly, yay, gas is expensive, oh no. I hate that shit as much as the next guy). This means the mainstream outside of Europe ('outside' in cycling terms means the UK too) is finally catching up on something that's been around for ages. I think this part is the crux of your article. You think it's a trend or culture ("Like most cycling sub-cultures"), and I understand that, in the US it WOULD be considered that BECAUSE your cycling is more about sport, because there's no real comprehensive infrastructure. Again, we don't consider cycling a culture. It's just Cycle Chic because we needed something catchy to label something very ordinary :).
"Like most cycling sub-cultures, bicycle chic reveres Europe and is thrilled to see itself represented in broader popular culture. Unlike most cycling sub-cultures, the primary objective of bicycle chic is to make one who rides a bike not seem like a huge dork to the outside world."
I laughed when I read this, too funny. Ironically, 'normal' utility cycling IS the broader popular culture. Again: cycling isn't perceived AS a culture, it's just there, like there is water coming from the tap, really.
"And there's something admirable about mindfully refusing to acknowledge the minor inconveniences of urban bike riding."
I think people and certainly planners in the US are picking up on the fact that a lot needs to be done to make it more safe. Millions and millions of people like me are already blessed with a comprehensive and non-debatable cycling infrastructure.
"And the resentment toward the very idea of riding a bike for fun or sport is disheartening. Why is that an adult athlete in America who seriously practices a sport (and doesn't get paid millions of dollars to do it in front of an audience) is met with sneering and mild contempt from others?"
We DON'T say that people shouldn't enjoy sport cycling or that it's silly or sad. We're just countering the perception that cycling is only about sports (because that has still the upper edge in the industry and people's minds). We just want more people on the road, without having them think there's only one way about that (which often obstructs them getting on that road). You know: 'I HAVE to have a very light bike, I NEED all that (clothing) gear, cycling IS expensive, etc). We have sporty cyclists here too, obviously, but you won't see them on a week day, going to work on a mountain or road bike, in lycra. Nope, only utility bikes, in normal clothes (dress/suit/casual/whatever). They use the evenings or weekend for that.
At Amsterdamize, for instance, I'm just showing (video/photos) what's already out there (which is exotic to many), explaining how it came about this way, at the same time helping others lowering the(ir own) barriers to cycling. Not an evangelist, not trying to convert you to a 'culture', just giving instructions and insights about the simplicity of cycling. What comes out of that IS usually very pleasing to the eyes, cause and effect :).
"But I don't mean to seem too critical. Any cultural shift that recognizes bicycles as a respectable and dignified piece of the urban landscape is most welcome by me."
Please continue to be critical, it's what pushes us forward. I'm glad in the end you understand the core significance. Hoping my 2cents made a difference.
cheers, Marc
PS, please go to these related Amsterdamize posts:
- More Dutch Fuel
- A Virtuous Cycle: Safety in Numbers for Bicycle Riders
- Les Velos d'Amsterdam
- Critical Mass
- A Run-Down of Normalcy in Cycling
Marc, You say "We don't care what kind of bike you have or what kind of clothes you wear, it doesn't matter." That's not entirely true. I'm sure he'll just say he's "taking the piss" again, but the commandments set down by the almighty Mikael specify "I will endeavour to ensure that the total value of my clothes always exceeds that of my bicycle". He also goes on to prescribe what you will wear and how you will ride.
This, and frankly the "slow bicycle movement", go too far for me and push me to feeling a bit like Zach seems to in this post - with all the whinging we forget that the point is to get on a bike and ride! No logo needed.
I'm about to buy a road bike for sport that will probably cost more than my entire wardrobe. I guess I'll have my cycle chic credentials stripped.
In the meantime I'll just try to show people all the beautiful ways a bike can be used as transportation, and let them work out for themselves what kind of bicycle statement is right for them.
See ya on the road! (or in the mountains)
Why can't we all just get along? Why does everything have to be a movement with rules, branding, and tribes?
How is this fundamentally different from this?
Where will it all end?
Everybody ride, everybody be safe, and everybody realize that it doesn't matter *what* you call it, it's all still riding a bike, and it's fun no matter how you do it, or why! Basically, I think we're all trying to spread the bike love, just doing it in different ways, and that speaks to the strength and diversity of our "movement". What some refer to as "branding", others see as helping form some community bonds where there have previously been none. Anything that gets more folks out there on bikes, and in a safe way, is okay by me, whether it's the Slow Bicycle movement or the Tour de France.
Thom
cycle chic is "un état d'esprit", pas un mouvement, as Marc says: doesn't matter what you use,what you ride. Ride it ! I do it for years now, always whith the clothes I wear normally (doesn't need to match whith the frame). Yes I love more and more bike lanes here in Paris, Yes I love more and more cyclistes on the streets, Yes I love they don't give a shit to bike sports, to bike culture and to mouvements. Cycling is a great way to go from A to B. Inexpensive, fast, safe and guess what... chic !
P.S.- Charlotte get your road bike for sport ! You gonna look glamourous !!!
Tiago,
I'm a little sad about it, it will replace a handmade bicycle I bought in a dusty shop in the 11ème - the first "real" bike I ever owned and the means by which I saw so much of France... But it's too small for me and there's nothing more I can do to try to make it fit. It is a great one-of-a-kind bicycle and I'll keep it for the memories, so long as a relative has a barn to store it in.
I will say in my defense that my wardrobe is mainly filled with vintage and hand-me-downs from more glamorous friends, so it's not hard to cost more than my wardrobe!
Thom, I think communities are welcome to bond, but I hope they do so without setting up some as "outsiders" and creating an us-versus-them dynamic. It does no one any favors. We cyclists have to stick together!
Charlotte, I think you are indeed taking Mikael's words too seriously, I never do that :-). I understand why he promoted it that way, to go polar on the 'popular' lycra/sport/helmet/etc dynamics. He's serious about 'normal cycling', but he's also very tongue-in-cheek, trying to get a rouse out of people. And it's working. Some will object, most won't, cause he delivers too. Easy, he lives in Copenhagen. Then it's all about showing it. As you maybe figured out, I'm not just 'in for the ride'. That would be shallow and indeed suffer the same demise as an actual trend. I've always photographed people in the wild and started shooting videos of cycling in 2003 and posting them online. Only just recently I picked up again and found out it deserved a better effort with this exposure going on. It combines my love of cycling, people, film, photos, internet and creativity in general. Whatever comes from that, meanwhile enjoying people's conversation and even helping them out, great!
Anyway, I still stand with what I said. Mikael's gist is that he wants to see people as they are off the bike, as he feels there's way too much bullshit going on. Yes, ironically, there will be people turning against this, feeling offended or profiled in a certain way. I'm sure he doesn't care, as he believes in what he's doing. And I feel he's doing something that's worth it, exposing more people to normal, safe and accessible cycling in an entertaining way.
I run my own show, as I'm not Danish, not Mikael, but an Amsterdammer. And we don't face the sort of political correctness (helmet discussion) in cycling as he does right now (yes, he's really worried about it).
Finally, like I told Marie when she was here: we're more raggedy, more laissez-fair.We'll ride a camel if we have to. :) So, just do what you feel you must/want, but also take Mikael with a grain of salt. He's getting way too much a kick out of it ;-0
@ano: we are getting along just fine, since when is an exchange of thoughts a fight? It's not. Different people, different cycling cultures, let's learn from eachother, I say.
Fundamentally different? No. As a way of getting more people cycling, yes, way different. Exactly the point of this non-movement, as it has been around for decades, promotion of it needed a juicy name, voila.
@Tiago: hey friend! My thoughts exactly! Ride, baby, ride! Oh how I miss Paris!!! Coming back soon, very soon! (I hope)
Well, we're finally in agreement! I concur that there's way too much bullshit going on.
:)
good, Charlotte, I knew we would be ;). I'm just wondering where Blogger In Charge is now in all this..were we this boring, Zach? :)
Thank you to everyone for the interesting discussions!
I hope to get to Amsterdam and Copenhagen soon to experience the cities firsthand. Even in US cities with decent infrastructure (ie Portland), cycling is a highly political issue. I look forward to the day when bicycles are as much a part of the ordinary, everyday streetscape as crosswalks and storm grates.
happy to have come here, Zach :)
Holler when you do get here, we'll ride together/show you around (the real deal).
cheers,
Marc
Bicycle Chic... then you really must check out RidingPretty for a unique and totally California take on Bicycle Chic!
All the Best
Shelly@ridingpretty.com
Riding Pretty - I don't know if it's TOTALLY California - but it's a cruiser-centric California slice. San Francisco is in California and has far fewer cruisers/scrapers, more variety. A better blog for that is http://velovogue.blogspot.com/
I like both RidingPretty and VeloVogue.
Why nitpick over styles of bikes and where you'll see what type?
In Copenhagen all you see is the same dutch style of bike again & again but nobody notices or cares. What anyone does notice or not is the 'chic' aspect of whatever the rider is wearing and how good they look or not.
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